Blemish-prone skin: the right habits

Where do blemishes come from?

Spots form inside pores, when sebum, dead cells and certain bacteria build up there. Hormones, genetics, stress, friction or overly rich products can all play a part. Blemishes are not a hygiene problem: washing more often or more roughly won’t make them go away, quite the opposite.

A simple routine

• Morning: gentle cleanser, niacinamide serum if you like, non-comedogenic gel-cream, lightweight sunscreen.
• Evening: makeup removal if needed, gentle cleanser, one targeted active (salicylic acid, azelaic acid or a retinoid, depending on your tolerance, and never all on the same evening), then gel-cream.
• Once a week: a clay mask on the T-zone.

Give a new routine six to eight weeks before judging its effect.

The most commonly used actives

• Salicylic acid (BHA): it penetrates into pores and helps clear them out. Ideal against blackheads.
• Niacinamide: helps limit shine and soothe the skin.
• Azelaic acid: useful for spots and for the red or brown marks they leave behind.
• Retinoids: they help prevent pores from getting blocked. Introduce them gradually.
• Benzoyl peroxide: often used for red spots; it can dry out the skin and bleach fabrics.

Mistakes to avoid

• Popping your spots: it increases the risk of marks and scars.
• Stripping your skin with very drying products: it often reacts by producing even more sebum.
• Piling on actives hoping to go faster.
• Scrubbing with a grainy exfoliant on inflamed spots.
• Forgetting sunscreen: it limits the brown marks left behind by spots.
• Massaging or using gua sha on a breakout: work around the affected areas.

What about enlarged pores?

Pore size depends largely on genetics and skin type. You can’t close them, but clean, hydrated skin protected from the sun often makes them less visible.