What is the INCI list?
Every cosmetic sold in Europe carries a list of its ingredients, written according to an international nomenclature called INCI. The names are often in English or Latin, so that they are the same everywhere in the world.
The order rule
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, down to 1%. Below that threshold, they can be listed in any order. In practice:
- The first five ingredients make up most of the product.
- A star active ingredient named at the end of the list is often present in a small amount. That doesn’t mean it is useless: some actives work at low doses.
The names to know
- Aqua: water, often in first position.
- Glycerin: glycerine, a common and well-tolerated moisturiser.
- Sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid: hyaluronic acid.
- Niacinamide: vitamin B3.
- Ascorbic acid: pure vitamin C. Its derivatives go by other names, such as ascorbyl glucoside.
- Retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate: the retinoid family.
- Salicylic acid: salicylic acid, a BHA.
- Lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid: AHAs.
- Gluconolactone: a PHA, a gentle exfoliant.
- Ceramide NP, AP or EOP: ceramides.
- Panthenol: provitamin B5, soothing.
- Tocopherol: vitamin E.
Ingredients to watch depending on your skin
- Fragrance (parfum) and some essential oils: best limited if your skin is sensitive. Some fragrance allergens are listed separately, such as limonene or linalool.
- Alcohol denat. near the top of the list: it can dry out dry or sensitive skin. Not to be confused with fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol, which are gentle.
- Very rich oils and butters, such as coconut oil: they can be a problem for some blemish-prone skin.
Marketing claims
“Non-comedogenic”, “hypoallergenic” or “dermatologically tested” are not absolute guarantees. These claims give an indication, but only your skin can tell you whether a product suits it.
Habits to keep
- Look at the first five ingredients.
- Spot the main active, and its concentration if it is given.
- Check for fragrance if your skin is sensitive.
- Do a patch test on a small area before adopting a new product.
